Matt.

I'm not the originator of the batteries for mast ballast swop. But its probably going to vary as an approach with different yachts.

For Privateer I'm using 2 x Lifeline GPL8ds. They're AMG batteries quoted at 255 amp hours each. They weigh just over 70 kgs each.

At full torque and thrust they should give just over an hour's running flat out. Of course, one should only be using half power or less, and a dayhire launch would be governed accordingly to provide endurance to match (and exceed) the hire period, but a private yachtsman needs the facility to operate in extreme circumstances - such as making way and holding steerage into the wind with full rig up in what I still think of as marginal topsail conditions.

One could also use another US made tank battery from Odyssey. Not quite as good I'm told, but they do them in different size configurations, so this does provide options.

The dimensions are approx 20 '' x 12" x 10" deep, but you can mount and use them in any position.

The first thing was to remove the cast mast weight lead. One should really sell this to offset the cost of the batteries, but (you've guessed it) I've kept it safe unless the whole project's a disaster.

The next thing is to scarf replacement wood into the part of the mast vacated by the lead., and then to build and site a retaining bracket.

See very rough drawing in image. The retaining strop obviously unclips when the mast returns to upright.

Mine's just like a big U clip, and was originally designed to hold one GPL8d on its side, with another perched on top, but this provided too much ballast ( I have a hollow racing mast), so I've had to split the batteries (one remaining on the floor in the forepeak. It's not ideal, as you need to keep them together to cross connect and draw 24 volts.

My connecting leads will thus be rather long, as the engine need to run in both the mast up and mast down position. On some yachts it would be possible to place two batteries of this size, side-by-side, but pointing upwards from the hog, but in the case of 127 that wouldn't allow me to close the forepeak hatch. Of course, the worst aspect of the way I've chosen is that I lose about 17 inches of airdraft above the tabernacle. It's also very vulnerable air-draft, if you know what I mean?

I can give you all the links to these sources when the project's complete. So far the disturbance to the original yacht consists of 1x35mm hole through hog and about 10 extra screws. Fingers crossed!

Come on now Mat, where's your diagram!!

It's true about that hatch... I have fallen down it more than once!

Well thanks very much folks for adding to my list of problems awaiting solutions.

Actually, I do mean that without irony, as you've probably guessed, I haven't been giving much attention to the BSS.

One mistakenly assumed that anything that purported to improve 'safety', would look kindly towards a methodology that precluded the need to carry large amounts of inflammable, spillable, liquids.

When Privateer goes South-to-North, my wife refers to her as 'The Bomb'. Thank heavens neither of us smoke.

I think we could meet the BSS clamping regs, but by doing so I can't see how my ambitions for masting down under electro-powered way, may be met. It's all going to be so much more fiddly and uncool.

Back to the drawing board then (you mean you actually planned some of this?).

Quite a reasonable suggestion, Finny, and there are certainly commercial plugs/sockets available which would do the job quite adequately.... but unfortunately (assuming my understanding of the BSS is sound, which shouldn't be taken for granted....what do I know?) I believe the BSS makes no provision for common sense or sound engineering, whether it be avoidance of carriage of flammable fuels or industry-standard connectors, but requires bolt-on terminals to batteries and continuous cables, adequately supported throughout, which would preclude moveable batteries of any sort..... I hope I'm wrong :-(

"Still not as cool as lowering underway"

Seems to me as this is making the bear's hair stand on end the more it get's mentioned !!

there is another possiblity

what about using an electrical susie
(thats the electric curly wire fitted between tractor unit and trailer on hgv's)available in 24 volt also with rated durite plugs

the said above are BS rated or perhaps i should now be saying European rated. although iam not sure what the rating is it would be not a problem to find out for you should you require

and lets face it if its good enough for the Ministy of Transport then it should be good enough to meet the BSS requirments

Just wanted to say a quick and gratefulthanks for all this input, which I'm following up.

Meantime, the stuff under the boat that isn't working doesn't seem to have slowed the yacht too much.
We staggered through Wroxham Week with a variety of rigging issues, but on one of the few rare moments when things weren't arsy, managed to blunder our way to a second place.
So there at least, the problem remains as before.
It's not the useless electric engine in the submerged pylon, but the nut on the end of the tiller.

If you knew Susie
Like I know Suzy...

Thanks Finns. And well done for going back to edit your earlier post.

Being a mere commoner, I know only of Ratcliff tail lifts and then not very much about how they work. Nevertheless, I do think you've given TH a good route to cracking the problem.

GF

Thanks again Finny.
If I could impose further, could you mail me any catalogue webreferences to the products you've found?

For some reason we cannot PM on this forum but you can PM me as Realaler on the Lightside.

ta again.